Like people have soul mates, in my family Biryani is the soul food or food for the soul. We can go anywhere, anytime, in fact to any lengths, to get our hands on that perfect pot of Biryani. When overtly joyous we eat Biryani, all important occasions are celebrated with Biryani as the show stopper, when depressed we eat Biryani to cheer ourselves up, any achievements are lauded with a large plate of Biryani, and I can go on and on.
My earliest memories of Biryani is that of a robust bawarchi(Cook) supposed to the best biryani chef in our little town with a skinny assistant, from midday onwards, cooking a huge dekchi(a flat bottom cooking pot used in Indian cooking) full of the most divinely aromatic biryani in our backyard. Under a brightly coloured and beautifully patterned temporary tent or shamiyana he would very skilfully arrange red coloured bricks into a square shape with the top and one side empty. The top would remain empty for the pot to sit on and one side for the fire woods to be inserted. While he got the fire ready to start his cooking, his puny assistant would be busy chopping away the aromatics and then on the grinding stone or sil batta grind all the spices finely. Once the firewood would start burning and the smoke from it settle down a bit, I would half hidden behind a door watch with loads of excitement what he was doing.
Although I did not understand much of the cooking process then ,I still remember two things distinctly. One was the bawarchi would say few lines of a prayer both before starting the cooking and also while opening the lid of the pot after the cooking finally finished. The second was how the aroma of the spices, the screw pine /kewra & rose water and also the meethi attar/scented perfume would envelope the entire neighbourhood heralding a festive air and trumpeting an impending celebration. These were the occasions of my sisters or my, Birthday and I strongly believe some of the best Biryani's were savoured during these times.
Now there are many interesting theories on the origin of the Biryani. I would like to put down all of them that I could gather. These are very interesting theories stemming up either from folklores or from ancient documents deciphered by food historians. Honestly for me the origin of Biryani is intriguing, but what is more cathartic is the cooking process, from the grinding, mixing to the final layering, oh it's sheer bliss. And the finale is that of pure euphoria.
In this series ALL FOR THE LOVE OF BIRYANI each post will have loads of trivia about the origin of the Biryani, how it imbibed regional colours and fashioned itself accordingly and many interesting secrets about this aromatic, divine, superlative dish.
Now this maybe debated by food historians that Biryani which originated in Persia came to India through the Mughals, but according to my understanding it should remain undisputed that Biryani was popularised by the Mughal rulers in the Indian Sub Continent. There is this story that in the 1600's when Emperor Shah -Jahan was the Mughal ruler his beloved queen Mumtaz Mahal , in whose memory the stunning monument wonder Taj Mahal was built is said to have paid a visit one day to the barracks of the army of the Emperor. When she found the soldiers there undernourished, she immediately order the chef/bawarchi in charge of the army barracks to start preparing a dish which would be rich in protein and at the same time nourish and energise the men of the army. She therefore wanted a rich mix of meat and rice which the bawarchi cooked based on her instructions and the final product was called BIRYANI.
Now this maybe debated by food historians that Biryani which originated in Persia came to India through the Mughals, but according to my understanding it should remain undisputed that Biryani was popularised by the Mughal rulers in the Indian Sub Continent. There is this story that in the 1600's when Emperor Shah -Jahan was the Mughal ruler his beloved queen Mumtaz Mahal , in whose memory the stunning monument wonder Taj Mahal was built is said to have paid a visit one day to the barracks of the army of the Emperor. When she found the soldiers there undernourished, she immediately order the chef/bawarchi in charge of the army barracks to start preparing a dish which would be rich in protein and at the same time nourish and energise the men of the army. She therefore wanted a rich mix of meat and rice which the bawarchi cooked based on her instructions and the final product was called BIRYANI.
Mumtaz Mahal
BIRYANI derives its name from the Persian word 'BIRIAN" which literally means fried or roasted before cooking. Traditionally the fragrant long grain rice was fried in ghee or clarified butter before being cooked using water. There were two reasons mainly behind this method. One, frying the rice gave it a nutty flavour later on. The other, frying the rice would form a starch layer around each grain, thus preventing the rice grains from clinging to each other when mixed with meat resulting in a fluffy delectable rice, mixed with succulent flavour laden meat.
With time and based on region many different types of Biryani's started being cooked. From the use of only vegetables, to sea food, to eggs , to poultry etc. Biryani was cooked depending on regional preferences again keeping the soul intact and adding elements to keep in tune with the local palete. Here is a Fish Biryani which again is a heirloom recipe learnt from my Mum-In-Law cooked just like she and before her the grand old ladies of the family tree have been cooking.
References :
FISH BIRYANI RECIPE :
AUTHOR : PIYALI
SERVES : 4
CUISINE : INDIAN
TYPE : MAIN COURSE
TIME : 30 MINUTES PREPARATION + 1 HOUR COOK TIME
INGREDIENTS :
1) 8 Seer Fish DARNE /Fish Steaks weighing approximately 1Kgm. You can also use Fish Fillets cut into 1.5 Inch cubes .Use any firm white fish.
2) 1 Tsp Turmeric
3) 1Full Lemon
4) 1Tsp Salt
5) 2 Large Onions sliced very fine
6) 4 Large tomatoes sliced very fine
7) 2 Large Onions thinly sliced and deep fried till golden brown
8) 1 & 1/2 Cup(75 Gms )chopped fresh coriander leaves
9) 1Cup (50 Gms) chopped fresh Mint leaves
10) 1tsp Ginger paste
11) 2 tsp Garlic paste
12) 4-6 Green chillies slit
13) 1 Tbsp Garam Masala Powder
14) 250 ml fresh Coconut Milk
15) 2 Tbsp Clarified Butter/Ghee or Oil
16) 4 Eggs
17) Salt to taste
For The Marinade :
1) 2 Tbsp Yogurt
2) 1Tsp of Kashmiri Red Chilli Powder
3) 1Tsp of Mustard Powder
4) 1/2 Tsp Fenugreek Powder
5) 1/2 Tsp Turmeric Powder
6) 1 Tbsp Ginger Paste
7) 2 Tbsp of Garlic Paste
8) 1 Tsp Salt
9) 2 Tsp Oil
For the Rice :
1Cup - 240 ml or 8 fluid ounce approximately
1) 500 Gms Long grain Basmati Rice
2) 3 Cups of hot water
3) 2 Tsp clarified butter/ghee
4) 1Tsp Salt
5) 4 Green Cardamom
6) 4 Cloves
7) 4 Pepper corns
8) 1 inch piece of cinnamon
9) Few strands of Saffron soaked in warm milk
COOK WITH ME IN EASY STEPS :
STEP 1:
Clean each fish steak very nicely. Sprinkle salt, turmeric and lemon juice over the fish steaks and rub each of them nicely. Leave the fish for 5 minutes and wash them again with water. By this method the fishy smell will go away totally. In a bowl mix all the ingredients under MARINADE nicely with a spoon. Now put the fish steaks on a flat dish and smear each fish steak with marinade lavishly on both the sides. Leave covered in a refrigerator for 30 minutes.
STEP 2:
Boil the eggs, peal and keep aside. Soak the saffron strands in warm milk and keep aside. In a thick bottom pan add the ingredients under FOR THE RICE. First the clarified butter, then cardamom, clove, pepper corn and cinnamon, and saute them till aromatic. Next goes in the rice which has been washed and drained. Mix everything in the pan and stir for a minute or two. Next pour in the 3 Cups of hot water and cook the rice until 70% done. Divide the rice into two portions on two plates. To one add the saffron strands along with the milk. Leave the other plate of rice as it is. Keep aside.
STEP 3:
In a pan deep fry the onions till crisp and golden brown, keep aside. Take a pan and add clarified butter/ghee or oil. To this add onions. Once they turn golden, add tomatoes, ginger and garlic. Mix and saute till the tomatoes become soft. Next add in the marinated fish steaks and let everything in the pan cook till fragrant. You can now see a beautiful colour on the fish because of the cooked spices.
STEP 4:
Add 80% of the freshly chopped coriander and mint leaves leaving the rest for later on. Next goes in the full coconut milk followed by the garam masala powder leaving a little to sprinkle while layering the biryani. Season with salt. Mix everything gently taking care not to break the fish. Let everything in the pan simmer away on a medium flame till the fish is cooked and a thick gravy of pouring consistency remains.
STEP 5:
Now we are ready for layering the biryani before it is sealed and allowed to cook on Dum or its own steam.
In a flat bottom pan add about 1 teaspoon of ghee/clarified butter and smear it nicely on the bottom of the pan. Next put a layer of the White rice .
Next layer put the fish with the gravy leaving a little gravy for the topmost layer, a little coriander , mint leaves, brown onion, slit chillies and sprinkle a little garam masala.
Next put the saffron coloured rice over the fish layer gently. Finally place the eggs, spoon in the remaining gravy, sprinkle the remaining garam masala powder, mint and coriander leaves, green chillies, brown onion and if you wish a tsp of ghee.
Close the pan and seal it tightly so that steam cannot escape and let everything in the pan cook very slowly for at least 20 minutes or a little more. In fact you can place the pan on a griddle over very low flame so that the bottom layer does not burn.
Once done, mix and serve hot with a bowl of cucumber, onion raita.
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FISH BIRYANI RECIPE:
INGREDIENTS :
1) 8 Seer Fish DARNE /Fish Steaks weighing approximately 1Kgm. You can also use Fish Fillets cut into 1.5 Inch cubes .Use any firm white fish.
2) 1 Tsp Turmeric
3) 1Full Lemon
4) 1Tsp Salt
5) 2 Large Onions sliced very fine
6) 4 Large tomatoes sliced very fine
7) 2 Large Onions thinly sliced and deep fried till golden brown
8) 1 & 1/2 Cup(75 Gms )chopped fresh coriander leaves
9) 1Cup (50 Gms) chopped fresh Mint leaves
10) 1tsp Ginger paste
11) 2 tsp Garlic paste
12) 4-6 Green chillies slit
13) 1 Tbsp Garam Masala Powder
14) 250 ml fresh Coconut Milk
15) 2 Tbsp Clarified Butter/Ghee or Oil
16) 4 Eggs
17) Salt to taste
For The Marinade :
1) 2 Tbsp Yogurt
2) 1Tsp of Kashmiri Red Chilli Powder
3) 1Tsp of Mustard Powder
4) 1/2 Tsp Fenugreek Powder
5) 1/2 Tsp Turmeric Powder
6) 1 Tbsp Ginger Paste
7) 2 Tbsp of Garlic Paste
8) 1 Tsp Salt
9) 2 Tsp Oil
For the Rice :
1Cup - 240 ml or 8 fluid ounce approximately
1) 500 Gms Long grain Basmati Rice
2) 3 Cups of hot water
3) 2 Tsp clarified butter/ghee
4) 1Tsp Salt
5) 4 Green Cardamom
6) 4 Cloves
7) 4 Pepper corns
8) 1 inch piece of cinnamon
9) Few strands of Saffron soaked in warm milk
COOK WITH ME IN EASY STEPS :
STEP 1:
Clean each fish steak very nicely. Sprinkle salt, turmeric and lemon juice over the fish steaks and rub each of them nicely. Leave the fish for 5 minutes and wash them again with water. By this method the fishy smell will go away totally. In a bowl mix all the ingredients under MARINADE nicely with a spoon. Now put the fish steaks on a flat dish and smear each fish steak with marinade lavishly on both the sides. Leave covered in a refrigerator for 30 minutes.
STEP 2:
Boil the eggs, peal and keep aside. Soak the saffron strands in warm milk and keep aside. In a thick bottom pan add the ingredients under FOR THE RICE. First the clarified butter, then cardamom, clove, pepper corn and cinnamon till aromatic. Next goes in the rice which has been washed and drained. Mix everything in the pan and stir for a minute or two. Next pour in the 3 Cups of hot water and cook the rice until 70% done. Next divide the rice into two portions on two plates. To one add the saffron strands along with the milk. Leave the other plate of rice as it is. Keep aside.
STEP 3:
In a pan deep fry the onions till crisp and golden brown, keep aside. Take a pan and add clarified butter/ghee or oil. To this add onions. Once they turn golden, add tomatoes, ginger and garlic. Mix and satue till the tomatoes become soft. Next add in the marinated fish steaks and let everything in the pan cook till fragrant. You can now see a beautiful colour on the fish of the cooked spices.
STEP 4:
Add 80% of the freshly chopped coriander and mint leaves leaving the rest for later on. Next goes in the full coconut milk followed by the garam masala powder leaving a little to sprinkle while layering the biryani. Season with salt. Mix everything gently taking care not to break the fish. Let everything in the pan simmer away on a medium flame till the fish is cooked and a thick gravy of pouring consistency remains.
STEP 5:
Now we are ready for layering the biryani before it is sealed and allowed to cook on Dum or its own steam. In a flat bottom pan add about 1 teaspoon of ghee/clarified butter and smear it nicely on the bottom of the pan. Next put a layer of the White rice . Next layer put the fish with the gravy leaving a little gravy for the topmost layer, a little coriander , mint leaves, brown onion, slit chillies and sprinkle a little garam masala. Next put the saffron coloured rice over the fish layer gently. Finally place the eggs, spoon in the remaining gravy, sprinkle the remaining garam masala powder, mint and coriander leaves, green chillies, brown onion and if you wish a tsp of ghee. Close the pan and seal it tightly so that steam cannot escape and let everything in the pan cook very slowly for at least 20 minutes or a little more. In fact you can place the pan on a griddle over very low flame so that the bottom layer does not burn.
Once done, mix and serve hot with a bowl of cucumber onion raita.
CHECK LIST :
1) Fish, 2) Basmati Rice, 3) Eggs, 4) Onion, 5) Ginger Paste, 6) Garlic Paste, 7) Tomato, 8) Mint leaves, 9) Coriander Leaves, 10) Lemon, 11) Turmeric, 12) Kashmiri Red Chilli Powder, 13) Mustard Powder, 14) Fenugreek Powder, 15) Cloves, 16) Cinnamon, 17) Green Cardamom, 18) Black
Peppercorns, 19) Yogurt, 20) Coconut Milk, 21) Saffron, 22) Milk, 23) Clarified Butter/Ghee, 24) Garam Masala Powder, 25) Green Chillies, 26) Oil , 27) Salt
NOTE:
- Cook the rice only 70% initially before mixing with the fish gravy and let the remaining cook on dum or its own steam. If the rice is cooked completely then it will become soggy when layered and cooked along with the fish.
- Don't leave the fish in the lemon, turmeric and salt mix for more than 5 minutes or else the fish will break while cooking.
- Instead of saffron strands soaked in milk, you can use saffron colour.
- Handle the fish gently while cooking or else you will break the fish.
- If you wish you can use only oil and avoid ghee/clarified butter while cooking.
- While opening the pan finally, be very careful as all the locked in steam will gush out and your hands might get steam burn.
- Use fresh fish for best results.
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